Early
seventeenth century men’s clothing included a tight one piece doublet with
short skirts and tightly cut sleeves along with padded and puffed breeches.
Boots were made of delicate materials, had coloured linings and the hats were
particularly noteworthy due to their lavish decoration. In women’s clothing the
ruff and bodice were ‘cut away to reveal the bosom’ and in men’s fashion it had
given place to a ‘casual, wide, falling collar of linen or lace over the
shoulders’. (Gorsline 1953:65-66)
However,
the Puritan style of clothing adhered to a very austere style of attire which
was assembled of a ‘black wide-brimmed, high-crowned felt hat, a sombre coat,
which slightly relieved at the neckline by the wide, plain collar of the shirt,
and woollen stockings’. There was little difference in women’s clothing apart
from the dark gown which revealed a stiff underskirt. (Gorsline 1953:66)
The
ruff, having disappeared from the wardrobe of the cavaliers and their ladies,
remained in Puritan and Dutch burgher fashion as an expression of ‘moral
conservatism through fossilized fashion’. (A. R. Batterberry & M.
Batterberry 1977: 140)
Post-restoration
fashions are documented in Van Dyck’s paintings and demonstrate French
influence such as ‘rows of looped ribbons to the rhinegrave breeches, drooping
ruffles at the knees and plumes to the hats’. The military influence in men’s
clothing had subsided and boots were displaced by shoes with stiff bows.
(Gorsline 1953:67)
Men
also wore the periwig (ex.31) which got gradually longer and cascaded in curls
over the shoulders or even below by the end of the century. This was replaced
by the ramillies wig by the early 18th century. (A. R. Batterberry
& M. Batterberry 1977)
(Example
31 Periwig)
(A.
R. Batterberry & M. Batterberry 1977: 142)
In
women’s clothing an important change was the drawing up of the overskirt which
would reveal the ‘full underskirt in front while the overskirt became a sort of
bustle draped behind.’ (Gorsline 1953:67)
No comments:
Post a Comment